Why Are Acetate Glasses More Expensive | Especially Hand-made Glasses
Glasses, in addition to clothing, are indispensable accessories for many people to travel. Different from hats, watches, rings and other accessories, glasses are not only decorative, but also the most important equipment for myopic people. However, with the popularity of glasses culture and the emergence of more and more people's needs for personality, glasses have become a choice for many people besides their original functions.
As the saying goes, choosing the right glasses is like changing your face. Although this sentence is a bit exaggerated, it cannot be denied that glasses, as our outermost dress, may have a stronger temperament than clothes in some scenes. Therefore, choosing the right glasses is a very important thing.
When choosing glasses, ordinary brands may be the priority choice for most people. You can find many brand chain optical stores in any large shopping mall, choose the desired frame type, and even complete the matching work within half an hour to an hour. In recent years, another type of glasses has been gradually understood and selected by more people. You may have heard of it, that is, hand-made glasses. Although hand-made glasses seem to have better design and texture than ordinary brand glasses, many people still stay at the price level in the face of the price of hundreds of dollars and there are not many channels for in-depth understanding.
Regardless of the price, the design and texture that just looks better cannot be the reason for us to buy hand-made glasses. Many people still ask: are hand-made glasses really worth the price?
As a glasses lover, after communicating with several friends, I realized that there are still some people who are still interested in their knowledge, culture and even history, although they do not have the need to buy hand-made glasses. Therefore, through this article, I would like to explain to you, from a relatively objective point of view, what is good (expensive) about handmade glasses. This article is not intended to provide you with suggestions on purchase, or do you want to compare the advantages and disadvantages of hand-made glasses with general brand glasses; No matter what kind of eyewear product you buy, it is a reasonable personal choice, regardless of right or wrong, advantages and disadvantages. If you are also interested in this topic, you might as well read on.
A Brief History Of Handmade Glasses
As the name suggests, hand-made glasses are hand-made glasses products. Different from the industrial assembly line machine production, each pair of hand-made glasses needs to be manually made and polished by the glasses master, so it takes longer time to make and more complicated production processes, and the per capita production capacity can only reach the level of 100 pairs per day or even lower. In addition, due to the complexity of the processing of hand-made glasses, the yield is very low. Many brands only employ teachers with more than 50 years of work experience to make glasses, so as to ensure the high standard of products and improve the yield as much as possible.
Speaking of hand-made glasses, Fukui Prefecture, one of the world's three largest glasses production places, is certainly a topic that cannot be bypassed. According to historical records, the history of making glasses in makojiang city can be said to have started from the zuowaimen of zengyongwu, a farmer in the city at that time. At that time, farmers and fishermen were limited by climate and other reasons, so they had nothing to do after winter. Zengyong five left guard gate, a member of the village council at that time, foresaw that the demand for glasses would certainly increase, and wanted to take glasses manufacturing as a sideline of farmers and fishermen in their spare time to ensure the lives of farmers. In 1905, zengyong wuzuoshaimen introduced craftsmen from Osaka, which already had a certain scale of glasses production, and started making glasses mainly by local young people. Zengyong glasses Co., Ltd. was established, which is now the Japanese hand-made glasses brand masunaga.
At that time, as it had just entered the eyewear industry, the quality of eyewear products was still far from the industry level, and the eyewear produced in Jingjiang City was also considered as a "third rate product". In order to change this situation, zengyong wuzuowaimen has established a guild system, allowing official glasses craftsmen to freely establish portals and brands. As a result, the glasses manufacturing industry has slowly developed in Jingjiang City, and thus there are so many Japanese hand-made glasses brands today.
Jingjiang has become the "holy land" of the glasses manufacturing industry in Japan and even the world. In addition to the time of origin, it also has something to do with its leading level. After the end of the first World War, the demand for glasses increased again, and the status of Jingjiang City as a well-known glasses producer in Japan was further clarified. Since then, Jingjiang glasses industry took the lead in using celluloid, sun platinum and other advanced materials to make glasses. In 1981, it also developed the first pair of titanium glasses with both lightness and durability by using titanium materials for the first time. Since then, Jingjiang's status as the world's advanced glasses producer has been established.
Three styles of handmade glasses I understand
Since the development of the glasses industry, I think it can be divided into three styles: Japanese style, American style and German / European style.
Japanese style is a Japanese local brand mainly produced in Jingjiang City, Fukui Prefecture, Japan. It is characterized by exquisite Japanese carving and other design elements, such as Matsuda and kame Mannen.
German/European style, mainly Lindberg, Marcus T and other brands, the design style is relatively "modern", mainly high-grade materials and precision manufacturing technology, while emphasizing the comfort of wearing.
American style, mostly based on the American style frames from the 1930s to 1940s, retains the rough style while adding complex handicrafts and playful details, such as TVR (true Vintage revival), Julius tart, effector, etc.
Of course, many countries in the world, including China, have excellent eyewear brands, such as tavat in Italy and rigards in Hong Kong. Although they have the same strong style, I think they can all be classified into the above style system, and some brands are even difficult to define a specific style system.
The above is only the style system summarized by me as an individual through contacting different brands and different frame types, combined with the brand's own positioning. If you have different views, you are welcome to discuss them together.
What are the advantages of handmade glasses
As different brands of glasses have great differences in materials, design and technology, the evaluation criteria cannot be generalized. I will combine the specific products of specific brands and select the design points of universality and uniqueness to show you the advantages of hand-made glasses.
First of all, the conclusion is that hand-made glasses are not simply made by hand instead of machines, so the work itself will lose its charm. The reason why so many experienced artisans still make glasses by hand after more than half a century is to inherit the ancient mirror making technology. Excellent hand-made glasses have details and processes that cannot be manufactured by machines in terms of design, and can solve problems in materials and manufacturing processes that cannot be solved by machines. This is also one of the reasons why hand-made glasses can survive for a long time and can continue to exist today with the continuous rise of industrial technology.
Please note that this does not mean that hand-made glasses are good glasses, or that the value for money; In the market, there are still products that sell products under the name of "manual" or use manual technology to make glasses meaninglessly. To understand a brand or a product in depth, you must understand the history and culture of the brand, contact the products and communicate with employees.
Materials must be the most intuitive factor for most people to understand the value of products, and glasses are no exception. Next, I will select several representative materials and explain their excellence in material use in combination with specific brands/frames.
Plate should be one of the most common materials for glasses. In terms of style, the size, frame type and color of plate glasses are more than those of general metal frames, which is the most powerful auxiliary role for personal style; At the same time, because the plate spectacle frame is large, it can accommodate lenses with higher degrees, and is applicable to a wider range of people; In terms of texture, plate is also a material that allows most people to more intuitively feel the "good" or "bad" of different frames.
At present, most of the sub plate glasses on the market use materials called "acetate". What you may not know is that acetate is a kind of cotton extract. The plate in glasses is actually a natural material made of more than 80% cotton fiber mixed with wood pulp. Acetate board has the advantages of not easy to burn, light texture and high hardness; Thanks to high-quality material selection and excellent processing techniques, good plates are also very outstanding in terms of gloss. We evaluate the quality of a pair of glasses at the first sight, but also through the gloss of the frame surface.
A good pair of plate glasses, in terms of gloss, gives people the greatest feeling should be "bright". At the same time, the surface of the frame will show different texture and color in different light. However, with the continuous use of the frame, the gloss of the frame surface will gradually dim, and many small scratches, sweat stains, oil stains, etc. will be generated. If you want to maintain the plate texture for a long time, you need to use polishing paste, or ask a professional glasses master to use a machine for polishing and simple repair.
So, how to deal with a good glasses brand? Taking the American retro Japanese brand TVR as an example, when talking with the optician, I learned that the plates used by TVR are made by the owner for 5 years or more, and have a long enough air drying time, so this problem will not occur again after the user purchases. Of course, due to the long production cycle and small stock of boss materials, the production capacity of brands using such materials is also relatively low, and even the production capacity is further reduced due to the inevitable yield problem.
For example, Lindberg's "buffalo horn series" uses high-quality natural buffalo horns from India, Vietnam, Africa, southern and Central America. This kind of buffalo horn not only has better texture performance than the above panels, but also has unique colors and lines due to the characteristics of natural materials. Meanwhile, in order to fulfill the corporate responsibilities of environmental protection and sustainable development, the buffalo horns purchased by Lindberg are all domesticated animals from legal channels.
By the way, I also want to say "hawksbill". When most people buy glasses, they should see the option of "hawksbill color". In fact, hawksbill is the name of a sea turtle and the only sea turtle in the world that can digest glass. Hawksbill shells have beautiful patterns, so they are often used to make jewelry and sculpture.
However, as the number of hawksbill has decreased sharply in the world and is on the verge of extinction, most countries have issued laws to prohibit the hunting of hawksbill, and now there should be no brand using hawksbill materials to make glasses. When you buy glasses, the tortoiseshell color styles you see are "substitutes" made of materials such as plates and celluloid that imitate the tortoiseshell color and pattern, which is why this color is called "tortoise".
Next, I will take the general design of specific brands and the design details of specific frame types as examples to explain the cost of hand-made glasses and why such a design occurs. Due to the diversity and span of the frame type and design of the mirror frame, it is impossible to give an objective judgment standard from the perspective of universality. If you have other brands and frame types you want to know, it is suggested that you can understand and judge them through the official website of the brand and by communicating with the local optician.
And Lindberg. The biggest feature of Lindberg glasses should be that the whole series of products emphasize the assembly process without screws and welding. While advocating environmental protection, Lindberg's hinge design can greatly increase the smoothness of the opening and closing of the lens legs, and the long-term use will not affect the tightness and smoothness of the hinge. I believe you must have experienced the experience that the lens legs become looser and looser after a long time of use, and you have to go to an optical shop to adjust.
In addition to the customized length of Lindberg's mirror legs, it also adopts an adjustable system. The optician can easily adjust the wearing position of the mirror legs according to your face shape to ensure the stability and comfort of the mirror frame.
In addition to the mirror legs, there is also a lot of knowledge about the design of the nose rest. Let's start with two daily examples:
There is no common nasal support for glasses other than the fixed nasal support commonly used in the plate. This kind of nasal support has a hard wearing feeling and is difficult to flexibly adjust the angle according to the wearer's face shape. The advantage is that it is not easy to deform and damage. In addition, there are common movable nasal holders, which are often made of skin friendly materials such as silica gel and titanium metal, which can adjust the wearing angle according to the face shape and improve the comfort.
In recent years, the "one mountain" type of nose rest is also common in the design of glasses. This kind of nose rest does not need too much adjustment, and can fit the nose shape. It is very suitable for the flat nose shape of Asians. Some frames of Wannian tortoise use "one mountain" type nose holders. Most brands launch small frame products with titanium, which can improve the wearing comfort in multiple directions. At the same time, as the nose bridge design used in the early mirror frame products, the "one mountain" type nose rest adds a lot of fun to the frame style temperament and details.
Mahiromaruyama, who focuses on asymmetric design style:
After finishing the design, let's talk about the process closely related to the design. Take exlanss as an example.
Frame material new revolution acetate frame is the most popular
About acetate (plate) material frame and sunglasses
Many glasses are made of acetate. But not all acetate glasses are the same. Let's start with the basics.
Acetate is also known as cellulose acetate (we often call it plate frame), zylyl or zylonite. Acetate is one of the earliest synthetic fibers. It is worth noting that the plastic used before was not used to make glasses until the late 1940s because of problems. Today it is an amazing thing, with dark luster and high transparency. The higher the quality of acetate fiber, the better the gloss and transparency. Wearers often describe this material as a more "natural feel" – the first of many differences compared to standard plastic.
Acetate consists of (biological) polymers derived from wood (tree) pulp and / or natural cotton fibers. Over the years, these cellulose fibers have been replaced by cheaper alternatives, such as injected nylon and polyester, both petroleum based plastics. In some cases, nylon is a reasonable eyewear material, such as impact or heat resistance in sports glasses or goggles. However, for fashion glasses, this material is almost always used to reduce costs. The result is a lower quality and less aesthetically pleasing final design.
Made from renewable materials
Available in various colors
Can make exquisite transparent
Advanced version can be adjusted by the optician
How to make acetate glasses?
Cellulose acetate sheet: a new combination of cellulose acetate is formed by mixing the organic color with acetone and raw acetate plant-based materials. The roller helps to mix the paste onto the already thin plate acetate to achieve a special color effect. Complex shading is produced by layering several colors and clamping them together or pressing them through various molds. The acetate film can be cut into small pieces and rolled again. These layers are molded into large blocks. The technicians then intricately sliced individual new sheets, which were dried in large kilns for several weeks to solidify the material.
Cutting and forming: according to the design input of technicians, use the computer-controlled milling cutter to cut and form the frame. Then, each frame component is manually completed by different well-trained technicians. They form a curve at the front of the frame and press the core and hinge into the acetate material. They apply the nose support according to the design and manually complete many other functions.
Polishing: the frame assembly is placed in a bucket about the size of a washing machine filled with sawdust and small stones. These components rolled together for hours. After that, each frame is polished by hand by experienced technicians to obtain a highly polished gloss.
Assembly: further technicians fix the arm on the frame with rivets and small screws. Insert the lens and adjust and clean the frame.
Hand made acetate glasses frame
To illustrate the quality difference of acetate glass, we can compare it with coffee. We know that coffee looks similar on the surface, but all coffee is the same, right? Absolutely wrong! It all depends on the production, processing and manufacturing methods of raw materials. It is the same as glasses, but more complex.
Generally speaking, it is a high-end frame manufacturer located in Japan and Europe. They have created the best products. Due to the handmade nature of acetate frames, the skills of artisans are crucial. Japanese craftsmen are world-famous, and the frames made in Japan are usually considered superior. When acetate is used, they can provide fine details. The traditional material manufacturer takiron is famous for producing harder acetate fiber, so it can maintain its better shape even with a very thin frame design. Therefore, Japanese acetate (ZYL) is generally preferred and has unparalleled material life.
Chinese manufacturers are improving rapidly. Therefore, the quality is similar to that of Japan or Italy.
Frames such as Platte in diamond or Richmond in Citrine are handmade from first-class acetate fiber, providing an exciting translucent effect. Colorless or slightly tinted, invisible from afar. Although many of us are used to choosing dark bold frames, this translucent trend should not be missed. Transparent frame glasses are suitable for almost any skin color and equipment. The ultimate timeless work.
If you prefer dark color, please check the laminated version with light color on the inside, so that your glasses can "disappear" from the field of vision when wearing. On the other hand, the all black frame always looks more visible on the inside and outside.
When considering acetate rather than other materials, it may be worth asking yourself the following questions:
Is your framework sustainable and has limited impact on our planet?
Is your frame durable and has a long pedigree?
Can your frame provide rich and lasting colors?
Is your frame handmade of high quality?
Although the frameworks are all considered to be the same product, they differ greatly. Think about the spirit behind our coffee analogy. Finally, whether you want to outline your face with symmetrical squares, prepared circles, inclined cat eyes or something in the middle, we strongly recommend exploring the acetate framework. They are really wonderful.